This is my first experience with surfing, and I just got to say; WOW! Im not even stading up right on the board, and I fall off just after a few seconds, and still its so much fun. Im so focused on catching the wave, putting the right foot at the right place, that my mind is empty. Im just enjoying. Not thinking about things that can go wrong, how my facial-expression looks (probably hillarious), or even how tierd every single mucles in my body is. Its only when I enter the beach again that I realize how sore my mucles are, and that Im full of blisters and bruises. But its actually worth it.
Warmth,
Karoline
